Climbing to Dalat

2/19/09
Lam Ha-Dalat (by Highway 20)
Day: 49.33 km
Cume: 2539.9 km
Avg: 11.9 kph
Max: 43.0 kph
Time: 4h8m
Highs: So many small and large farms growing greens, flowers, fruit in huge variety, PINE and pine scent reminding me of home, cooler temperatures, flowers proliferate the road side, entering the lovely mountain town Dalat
Lows: Malicious truck driver honks horn for no reason only once and right when his horn is next to my ear; long, steep, busy ascent, tired today from yesterday's long ride, sore in the climb, being locked in the hotel (again) and having to wait for someone to wake up to let me out, starting ride day 45 minutes later than I was ready to depart


This is the big day, the day I knew was coming. A long 30 km ascent, gradual at first and then steep in the last 10km. It was a long day yesterday and I was still pretty sore and tired, so this climb was not going to be easy. The countryside leading up to the climb offered an impressive variety of fresh produce farms. Such huge variety!!!

The climb itself was both good and bad. Seeing the sign at the bottom of the climb welcoming me to the Dalat region made me grow very anxious to finally see this mountain community I had heard so much about from farang and locals alike. I had to get through the 10km climb along a major traffic corridor, first. Once I smelled the pine and saw the pine litter scattered on the roadside, my spirits lifted. I thought of Plumas County, somehow that smell transports me back there every time I smell it. Thinking of old friends and many wonderful experiences while attempting to focus on the road and the rear view mirror. Buses and motor bikes abound, everyone in such a hurry! The road was so narrow, I basically rode up the painted line at the road side. Fortunately, most drivers gave me space. Bus drivers still suck and honk at me more than once and more than necessary because the road is truly just barely wide enough to accomodate two buses passing each other abreast. This occurs frequently on this busy tourist corridor.

I continue to play games with the remaining mileage in the climb, doing and redoing the calculation of the number of miles remaining transposed from the kms, celebrating each additional passing km. I pass a road sign for a mountain zen temple, make a mental note to return by motor bike. Finally, the top of the hill, cresting and then dropping down into the outskirts of Dalat. My first traffic circle, my second, the lake, the hotels, all the homes perched in the hills like the famous residences in San Francisco; a certain feel in the air tells me that I'm going to want to stay a while. It's warm, but not hot, the air is fresh, the lake glistening and something is...missing...can't.....quiet.......figure it........out........horns........there aren't that many horns!........what?...............is this still Vietnam???? Really, there's a lot of motor bike traffic, but only scattered horns here and there in the soundscape. People drive quickly, but most people drive pretty mellow. The pace here is slower. I don't fear for my life in the traffic circles (should I?).

With the plethora of hotels and the lack of patronage, I easily secure a nice third level hotel room with a balcony looking out on sunrise, with BBC and HBO, hot showers and a comfy bed in a quieter neighborhood with a few restaurants, a travel office that says it can help me extend my visa, a motor bike rental shop and a inet cafe with the best computers I've seen yet in the country. I'm definitely staying. Oh yah, the hotel was about $6 per night. Not bad. It's possible to acquire a place that costs less, but this will suit me just fine. I place a chair from downstairs on my balcony and settle in for a longer stay.


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in a baby's toy
I think I hear Dave Brubeck---
ah, homesickness



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